>>> Barbapoupon <<<

Verdon Gorges Multi-pitch

Bolted by M. & N. Broche, B. & D. Gorgeon, J. Keller, J. Nosley 1979 (1987) – 6b+ (6b)

With ” Barbapoupon” we are in one of the most impressive part of l’Escalès and the Verdon Gorges !! The climb there is very technical, on a beautiful grey rock made out of “thousand of holds”. You have to beware of the grades, they are quite difficult compared to modern climbing !

2:30pm, work is finished, what could we do with this heat ? Find a climbing crag under the shade ? Tictactictac, the clock is ticking, let’s quickly prepare the gears and here we are, 3pm at the top of the Barpapoupon abseils ! Perfect timing, the multi-pitch has just gone to shade ! We haven’t start climbing yet that we can already feel the atmosphere ! 3 abseils later we are at the beginning of the multi-pitch with a breathtaking view on the Canyon !

A bit more information on those 6 beautiful pitches !

P1 – 5c+ : Very nice traverse on water drops. As soon as you start you can feel the atmosphere and the high ! (A perfect picture shot to be made for the second climber 😉 )

P2 – 6b+ : You have to be climb properly to reach a bolder section. Then, you have to keep focus until the anchor. The climb is quite technical, it is easy to make mistakes and for that reason you have to keep focus all the way.

P3 – 6b+ : You start with a foot on the tree. Carreful, if this one breaks it will become much more difficult ! However, even if it does, the equipment allows you to o some aid climbing. This pitch is a beautiful 35 meters 6b+. The climb is quite homogeneous and very technical. You have to be focus on the climb bottom-up !

P4 – 6a+ : Holds are becoming bigger (finally!).  The pitch goes to the right – be carreful to not climb straight up otherwise you will end up in the 6b+ of “Rivière d’argent”. The pitch is not very long, about 20 meters.

–> Possibility of mixing P5 and P6 but it requires at least 18 quickdraws.

P5 – 6b : Bloder section at the very beginning of the pitch (you can avoid it if you pull on the hook) then comes a beautiful pitch on nice buckets ! Be carreful at the end of the pitch, the route goes on the left on new hooks (a bit hidden) to reach the anchor.

P6 – 5c+ : Keep focus at beginning and on few meters, then the climb become easy to reach the anchor.

Top picture: Elie focusing on the 5c+ traverse (P1)

Bottom picture : Auriane in P2 (6b+)

barbapoupon gorges du verdon
barbapoupon grande voie gorges du verdon

As it wasn’t enough beautiful, we finish the multi-pitch with a superb view on the canyon ! Breathtaking !

elie morieux gorges du verdon

Before

After 😂

For the ones who wish to do their very first multi-pitch in the Verdon Gorges and who would prefer to be with a guide for their first time or for the ones who wish to go and try more difficult multi-pitch do not hesitate to contact me ! And have a look on my multi-pitch page : https://www.verdon-pro-climb.com/en/multi-pitch/