>>> FFF or La Grotte du Monstre <<<
Guidebook in Grimper magazine n°158 (Special edition Spécial Verdon)
Attention a few mistakes were made for this crag in the Grimper topo !
The “Grotte du Monstre” climbing crag is located only 5km from Moustiers Sainte Marie ! It is an impressive cave at the top of an hill, unfortunately it has been forgotten the last few years…
The left side of the crag is under the shade until 5pm and all day for the right side. There is always a thermal Wind at this cave so a little advice : do not forget your jacket !
The routes are going from 6c up to 8c+ with some recommended ones !
IMPORTANT : on the “Grimper” guidebook some intermediate anchors haven’t been mentioned leading up to 4 forgotten 7’s routes ! Which are :
- M – Walim : 1st anchor 7a – 2nd anchor 7a+
- L – Pour toi j’ai bâclé : 1st anchor 7a+ – 2nd anchor 7c/+
- K – Pour toi j’ai bêché : 1st anchor 6c – 2nd Anchor 7c+
- J – Le voleur de capotes : 1st Anchor 7b – 2nd anchor 8a+
Personal recommendation :
M – Walim – P1: 7a / P2:7a+ : Very nice
J- Le voleur de capotes – P1: 7b / P2: 8a : Beautiful first pitch on good holes – Pitch 2 : Strange…
L – Pour toi j’ai bâclé – P1: 7a+ / P2: 7c/+ : First part not so easy, second part : a must !
K – Pour toi j’ai bêché – P1: 6c / P2: 7c+ : Very nice first pitch on good holes and it keep going up to the top !
E – Raide comme la justice – P1: 7c+ / P2: 8c : A very steep and physical wall with big jugs, it keep going on a beautiful and impressive roof as an 8c.
C – Cas de force majeur – P1: 7c+ / P2: 8b+ :
ATTENTION: here, the route name on Grimper magazine is wrong, it is not “L’Afrique c’est chic” but “Cas de force majeure” !
The 1st pitch is a beautiful prow with some tuffas becoming a very long wall lest steep.
D – Persona non grata – P1: 7c+ / P2: 8c+ :
ATTENTION: Here is the route name on the Grimper magazine is also wrong, it is not “La proue” but “Persona non grata” !
You start in “Cas de force majeure” (7c+) and follow the prow up to its top even higher ! It is THE line of the climbing crag, an amazing but very steep prow ! One of the most beautiful 8c+ of the Verdon Gorges !
To avoid :
A – FFF – P1: 7a / P2:7a+ : The beginning is quite sketchy with loose rocks ! Needs to be cleaned up a little bit !