>>> Pichenibule <<<
Multi-pitch in the Verdon Gorges
Bolted by J. Perrier, S. Troussier, A.Bultel, P.Grenier, G. Thomas, P. Martinez, J-P Moron, J. Ginat 1977 – 7c (6b+)
Pichenibule, as a part of the multi-pitch history in the Verdon Gorges, is a must climb !! Despite a beginning a little bit unsolid, the lower part of the multi-pitch must be done ! The second part is simply beautiful on an amazing carved rock ! We have the possibility to end on “Haute tension” instead of doing the 7b+ by pulling on the gear
Avoid the multi-pitch when it’s too hot. The second part is Under the shade from 3pm in summer time.
The access : To park at La Carrelle viewpoint.
The abseils : get down in the “Ticket Danger” abseils; then there is one abseil in “Rideaux de Gwendal” which allow us to get to the bottom. Then you just have to walk 5 minutes to get to the multi-pitch departure.
A bit more information on this beautiful Pichenibule multi-pitch ! !
P1 – 5c+ : The first pitch is located on a pillar which is made out of very unsolid rock ! Do not be suprised to find both pitons and bolts along the pitch !! Carrefull, the first bolt is a bit high.
P2 – 5c+ : It is a traverse with a part where you have to climb down, all of it on a unstable rocky peak ! Then, the pitch goes on the other side of the rocky peak. All along the pitch the rock is pretty bad and unsafe.
P3 – 6a : The rock becomes much better 🙂 !! The pitch goes up into a corner / crack not very to climb. Be carrefull with the grade, you might be surprised !
P4 – 5c+ : Same thing a little bit more easy ! A bolder took off from the top of the pitch, just before to arrive at the “Jardin des Bananes”. The top of the pitch is a bit crunchy now but you have the possibility to go out on the left avoiding the last bolt.
P5 – 5c : From there the grades become more easy. You climb on good holds. The rock is a bit polished but the holds are beautiful !
P6 – 5c+ : A gorgeous left traverse on water drops, then comes a run out corner – absence of bolts on few meters (all along the corner actually). Even if the climb is not that difficult, it’s definitivelly better to not fall! Possibility to add friends.
P7 – 6a+ : We stay on a beautiful rock. Travberse on the left. Carrefull, the pitch cross other pitches, do not mistake !
P8 – 6b : Short pitch. We start by a traverse to reach out a corner.
P9 – 6c+ : Beautiful 35 meters pitch ! You have to be focus up to the top, it’s not an easy climb. It start with a left traverse to cross over a pillar with a boulder section a bit physical (no foot), followed by a very good rest. Then comes a section not too difficult at the beginning but getting to almost at the end to finish on a slab boulder section hopefully very well (re) bolted ! XD
P10 – 6b : The pitch goes on few meters to reach a left traverse quite physical on good holds (not too much foot..).
P11 – 7b+ : I dare you to climb it onsight !! A very short but intense pitch ! Very depending moves on bad and polished holds.
P12 – 5c+ : Very nice pitch on good holes, Worth the Escaled last pitches reputation !